You might guess it from the name: the heat exchanger is the part of your furnace that actually heats the air your blower motor pushes through the furnace. It consists of a chamber in which the heat energy produced by natural or propane gas is transferred to the forced air. At the same time, this part also includes a vent through which the gases themselves are safely removed from the unit and the air that enters your home. Because of these gases, a problem with your heat exchanger needs to be dealt with promptly. Over time, cracks in the exchanger can result in carbon monoxide leaks. Taking care of the problem once again means understanding the existence of a range: repairing your heat exchanger can cost as little as $100, but a full replacement may cost up to $1,200.
2Be sure the furnace’s circuit breaker is on or that its fuse has not blown. Check both the main electrical panel and any secondary subpanels that supply power to the unit. If the circuit has blown or tripped, reset the circuit breaker by flipping it all the way off and then on again. Or replace the fuse. If the circuit blows again, there is probably a short in the electrical system providing power to the furnace. For this, you may need to call an electrical contractor.
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This job involves removing the access panel, loosening a couple of bolts that hold the blower motor at the proper tension, and adjusting its distance or realigning the belt. In many cases, it’s a good idea to remove the belt and buy a replacement at a home center. Last, when reinstalling the belt, be careful not to over-tighten it; this can wear out the motor bearings.
It can also be a health hazard. Technicians say a furnace inspection can reveal carbon monoxide leaks, which are hard to detect because the gas is colorless and odorless. Carbon monoxide can lead to headaches, dizziness, nausea and even death. An estimated 500 people die each year, and 15,000 people are taken to emergency rooms, because of exposure.
Whether you are in need of new installation, system replacement, seasonal maintenance, or prompt repair, M and M, Heating & Cooling, Plumbing & Electrical lives up to your highest expectations for quality, pricing, reliability, and quick turnaround on all projects. And our commitment isn’t limited to regular business hours. We’re always available when you need us, providing 24 hour Emergency Service across Longmont, Dacono, Frederick, Firestone, Mead, Erie & Johnstown, CO. Trust the #1 Rated and Certified – A/C, Heating, and Plumbing Experts.
Furnace tune ups should take anywhere from 45 minutes to hour and a half, depending on what the technician has to deal with when he gets there. I was a heating and AC professional for over 10 years and I had tune ups that only took me 30 minutes, and others where it seemed like I had to practically disassemble the entire furnace, clean, then put back together. Every call is unique. However, it's important you trust your contractor. Your instincts are more accurate than you probably give yourself credit for. I don't remember a tune up ever going less than a 1/2 hr in my 10 years of experience. It just takes time to setup, take down, and perform the actual maintenance. If you figure a minute per inspection point, it should have at least taken half an hr. I've showed up to furnaces that look flawless, and I still take them apart and clean them because that's what the homeowner paid me for. If there is even a hint of a cracked heat exchanger, get a second opinion. There are scams out there, and unfortunately a 20 minute inspection wouldn't reveal that. Have whomever is making the claim show you via camera or by physically removing the combustion chamber from the furnace and showing you. As weird as that sounds, I've removed heat exchangers out of furnaces just to prove that there was an issue. A cracked combustion chamber can be a serious issue, so the fact that he said it should be fine says either he doesn't know what he's doing or he's not being truthful, or both. It's not that cracked heat exchangers are leaking carbon monoxide, it's that they can. It's the potential that makes it dangerous. Hope this helps!
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Great article! I am having trouble identifying what to use for the aluminum or zinc strips to prevent organic growth and staining. How wide are the strips? Are they predrilled? I am starting to see black stains on the north facing asphalt shingles. Do you recommend treating that befor adding the metal strips? If so, 50/50 bleach and water or a commercial product?